eating in Madrid

With Rosana's delicious and healthy cooking, and her great knowledge of the city and its dining options, we ate very well in Madrid. Some of these dining spots were among the most crowded places I experienced in the city-- at one place people stood in line for a much-loved potato and egg dish, at another they took tickets and waited for pastries. At home, Rosana countered this rich food with delicious fresh fruit, vegetables, and fish.

Marseilles skies

Marseilles

I had heard of Marseilles' reputation as a vibrant port city, with a rich mix of cultures from Northern Africa, Asia, and beyond. Visiting at the beginning of winter and in the midst of national recession, I had the impression that I had arrived after the party was over. The streets were often nearly empty as were most tourist destinations (except Notre Dame de la Garde) and life in the city seemed harder and poorer. Perhaps this stood out more starkly after spending three months in Switzerland, with its thriving economy, attention to order and cleanliness, and welcome for tourists.

Luckily, I found a friend at my hostel and we were able to have some good adventures.

We walked up to the Notre Dame de la Garde on a high hill overlooking the city, port, sea, and the mountains to the north. The narrow residential streets that curve up to the church are lined with small Mediterranean-style houses, the facade colors and palm trees also suggested the city's orientation toward the sea and the south.

These small boats hanging in the church reflect the peoples' prayers for safe return of their loved ones from sea.








We then found a small lunch place called the Cafe des Arts on the east side of the Old Port where we found friendly staff and delicious seafood. We felt that we had discovered a little corner of the authentic, old-fashioned city, and that we were able to talk with some longtime Marseilles inhabitants. One patron encouraged us to take the bus along the coast to see the old fishing villages, between the cliffs and the water. At first the sky threatened rain, but then we decided to try it.

Lyon, holidays

There was a feeling of holiday spirit in Lyon, and in most of the places where I have traveled recently. As in Switzerland, Lyon had a Christmas market in one of the large public squares, full of small cabins where people sold crepes, hot wine, jewelry, meats and cheese, holiday decorations, and so on.

mountains of marzipan


Santons, figures for making the manger scene

Lyon, night

Lyon was preparing for the Fete des Lumieres while I was there, setting up big flood lights on monuments, fairy tale scenes in lights, as well as the huge ferris wheel, this merry-go-round, and the usual seasonal street lights.