eating in Madrid

With Rosana's delicious and healthy cooking, and her great knowledge of the city and its dining options, we ate very well in Madrid. Some of these dining spots were among the most crowded places I experienced in the city-- at one place people stood in line for a much-loved potato and egg dish, at another they took tickets and waited for pastries. At home, Rosana countered this rich food with delicious fresh fruit, vegetables, and fish.

Marseilles skies

Marseilles

I had heard of Marseilles' reputation as a vibrant port city, with a rich mix of cultures from Northern Africa, Asia, and beyond. Visiting at the beginning of winter and in the midst of national recession, I had the impression that I had arrived after the party was over. The streets were often nearly empty as were most tourist destinations (except Notre Dame de la Garde) and life in the city seemed harder and poorer. Perhaps this stood out more starkly after spending three months in Switzerland, with its thriving economy, attention to order and cleanliness, and welcome for tourists.

Luckily, I found a friend at my hostel and we were able to have some good adventures.

We walked up to the Notre Dame de la Garde on a high hill overlooking the city, port, sea, and the mountains to the north. The narrow residential streets that curve up to the church are lined with small Mediterranean-style houses, the facade colors and palm trees also suggested the city's orientation toward the sea and the south.

These small boats hanging in the church reflect the peoples' prayers for safe return of their loved ones from sea.








We then found a small lunch place called the Cafe des Arts on the east side of the Old Port where we found friendly staff and delicious seafood. We felt that we had discovered a little corner of the authentic, old-fashioned city, and that we were able to talk with some longtime Marseilles inhabitants. One patron encouraged us to take the bus along the coast to see the old fishing villages, between the cliffs and the water. At first the sky threatened rain, but then we decided to try it.

Lyon, holidays

There was a feeling of holiday spirit in Lyon, and in most of the places where I have traveled recently. As in Switzerland, Lyon had a Christmas market in one of the large public squares, full of small cabins where people sold crepes, hot wine, jewelry, meats and cheese, holiday decorations, and so on.

mountains of marzipan


Santons, figures for making the manger scene

Lyon, night

Lyon was preparing for the Fete des Lumieres while I was there, setting up big flood lights on monuments, fairy tale scenes in lights, as well as the huge ferris wheel, this merry-go-round, and the usual seasonal street lights.

Eigergletscher

This weekend I explored the Jungfrau region ("top of Europe!"), from Grindelwald, to Kleine Scheidegg, to Lauterbrunnen, all around the three legendary peaks of Jungfrau (the Virgin), Eiger (the Ogre) and Monch (the Monk).

These mountains are big, the bigger, rougher brothers of our rolling peaks here in Rougemont and the Pays d'Enhaut.

However rugged the mountains may be, it is possible to access them in all ease and comfort-- you can get right there on the train, and hike on well-marked paved trails, and stop for a lunch and drink before or after. This was the type of weekend I had.

Here I am with the Eiger glacier, a short walk uphill from the train station at Kleine Scheidegg. It is amazing up there-- the train pulls you up the valley, past the north face of the Eiger, and you arrive at the mountain station in the sun, with the colorful orangish-red scrub vegetation all around.

edge of sun and shadow

The other side of the valley in Rougemont is in shade most of the day. Most of the chalets are on our side, facing the sunny south. The area down by the river, and rising up to the Rubli mountain, is usually in shadow. Some days you can find the edge between the two, when the sun shines just above the mountains.

night sky

rewind: Fribourg

Another one of my favorite cities (are they all favorites?) was Fribourg. I walked through a modern shopping district, through a street market by the Hotel de Ville and cathedral, down to the river and the stunning cliff, and then looped back around. I stopped for awhile at the Swiss Museum of the Puppet, which had an interesting collection but poor displays, and also had a classic Swiss rosti for lunch at what my guide book said was Jean Tinguely's favorite spot.

Zurich old city

I had expected Zurich to be highly urban, gritty, and "hip," I think because I know it as the birthplace of Dada, a center of Swiss art and design, and as the home to one of my favorite punk bands. But, Zurich was as peaceful and lovely as the other Swiss cities I have visited. The weather was great, and I enjoyed walking through ZuriWest (indeed, urban and hip) and then the winding narrow streets of the old city, before meeting Dan for dinner and more wandering.

the old city's hilly streets


Map in hand, I navigated through the old city and came upon Lindenhofplatz, which had a little tent city and big sign declaring "Occupy Paradeplatz"-- I overcame my geographic confusion and realized that I was indeed in Lindenhof-- Paradeplatz is like the Wall Street of Zurich, a bit further down the street.





Grossmunster

our mountain and our larch

Sometimes I go so far as to consider this "my mountain," because it is the one I see out my bedroom window, and in front of our house / workplace. And yet, I have only lived here for 2 1/2 months, and have barely even set foot on that side of the valley!

Our larch catches the sun every afternoon, and stands like a sentinel marking our building whenever I return from a trip.

frost shadows

Many mornings now there is frost throughout our valley; since our side faces south most of the frost melts by mid-morning. I noticed that the frost remains in the shadows: of trees, benches, and houses...

Thun

This weekend I was charmed by the lovely small city of Thun in the Lake District, west of Lake Thun. I now see some common elements between these wonderful Swiss cities and towns: a river or lake where the old town is centered, lively public space and cafes along the river, a church in the center or on higher ground, perhaps a castled and remains of the city wall. Booksellers have their 2012 agendas and advent calendars out, men are selling roasted chestnuts, friends gather at outdoor cafes despite the chilly weather, and crowds flock to any sunny spot they can find.

Like in Paris, the old central city of Thun is on an island in the middle of the Aare river. Several wooden covered bridges traverse the river and some also include dam machinery, so as you walk over you hear the rushing of water beneath you.

fall scenes

The larch in front of our building has turned golden


Making pumpkin ravioli from scratch


The guys taking a closer look at our new neighbors

globe thistles