Marseilles

I had heard of Marseilles' reputation as a vibrant port city, with a rich mix of cultures from Northern Africa, Asia, and beyond. Visiting at the beginning of winter and in the midst of national recession, I had the impression that I had arrived after the party was over. The streets were often nearly empty as were most tourist destinations (except Notre Dame de la Garde) and life in the city seemed harder and poorer. Perhaps this stood out more starkly after spending three months in Switzerland, with its thriving economy, attention to order and cleanliness, and welcome for tourists.

Luckily, I found a friend at my hostel and we were able to have some good adventures.

We walked up to the Notre Dame de la Garde on a high hill overlooking the city, port, sea, and the mountains to the north. The narrow residential streets that curve up to the church are lined with small Mediterranean-style houses, the facade colors and palm trees also suggested the city's orientation toward the sea and the south.

These small boats hanging in the church reflect the peoples' prayers for safe return of their loved ones from sea.








We then found a small lunch place called the Cafe des Arts on the east side of the Old Port where we found friendly staff and delicious seafood. We felt that we had discovered a little corner of the authentic, old-fashioned city, and that we were able to talk with some longtime Marseilles inhabitants. One patron encouraged us to take the bus along the coast to see the old fishing villages, between the cliffs and the water. At first the sky threatened rain, but then we decided to try it.

Lyon, holidays

There was a feeling of holiday spirit in Lyon, and in most of the places where I have traveled recently. As in Switzerland, Lyon had a Christmas market in one of the large public squares, full of small cabins where people sold crepes, hot wine, jewelry, meats and cheese, holiday decorations, and so on.

mountains of marzipan


Santons, figures for making the manger scene

Lyon, night

Lyon was preparing for the Fete des Lumieres while I was there, setting up big flood lights on monuments, fairy tale scenes in lights, as well as the huge ferris wheel, this merry-go-round, and the usual seasonal street lights.

Eigergletscher

This weekend I explored the Jungfrau region ("top of Europe!"), from Grindelwald, to Kleine Scheidegg, to Lauterbrunnen, all around the three legendary peaks of Jungfrau (the Virgin), Eiger (the Ogre) and Monch (the Monk).

These mountains are big, the bigger, rougher brothers of our rolling peaks here in Rougemont and the Pays d'Enhaut.

However rugged the mountains may be, it is possible to access them in all ease and comfort-- you can get right there on the train, and hike on well-marked paved trails, and stop for a lunch and drink before or after. This was the type of weekend I had.

Here I am with the Eiger glacier, a short walk uphill from the train station at Kleine Scheidegg. It is amazing up there-- the train pulls you up the valley, past the north face of the Eiger, and you arrive at the mountain station in the sun, with the colorful orangish-red scrub vegetation all around.

edge of sun and shadow

The other side of the valley in Rougemont is in shade most of the day. Most of the chalets are on our side, facing the sunny south. The area down by the river, and rising up to the Rubli mountain, is usually in shadow. Some days you can find the edge between the two, when the sun shines just above the mountains.

night sky

rewind: Fribourg

Another one of my favorite cities (are they all favorites?) was Fribourg. I walked through a modern shopping district, through a street market by the Hotel de Ville and cathedral, down to the river and the stunning cliff, and then looped back around. I stopped for awhile at the Swiss Museum of the Puppet, which had an interesting collection but poor displays, and also had a classic Swiss rosti for lunch at what my guide book said was Jean Tinguely's favorite spot.